Hi all,
I just finished a head- off valve job and took my 2007 RTL around a two mile “victory lap” during which It ran beautifully. I pulled the RL into the garage to clear any codes and check for leaks. I plugged in a Bluetooth donagle and it wouldn’t synch to my iPhone app. After trying my phone and my wife’s phone, I pulled out the module from the diagnostic port. The truck would crank but not start! I found the #19 fuse in the driver’s footwell fuse panel was blown. According to my book, that fuse is for: Immobilizer Control Unit Receiver, IMOES Unit, Powertrain Control Module (PCM), PGM-FI Main relay #2 Fuel Pump, PGM-FI Main Relay #2. I replaced the fuse only to have it immediately blow again as soon as I turned the ignition on. I probed the fuse panel and the output side of that fuse is a direct short to ground ( key off)
So far I have :
1. Disconnected the plug in backseat to fuel pump/ gauge, visually checked the wire bundles going to backseat. All wires still wrapped in flex conduit, no signs of wear or trauma. Fuse blew again with plug disconnected.
2. Disconnected the Throttle body
3. Dropped down the OBD (Data Link) and checked the wiring for freys or crispy spots. Even eventually got my Diagnostics module firmware (code reader) up-dated and synched with my phone- works well and showed no codes.
4. Pulled out the PGM-FI relays R-3 and R-5 checked for crispies and solonoid clicks and proper operation.
5. Searched the engine bay for loose, wires, plugs, grounds, pinched wires, etc.
6. Looked around both exhausts for wires that may have strayed too close.
During the valve job, I did a very tidy job, re-routing the wires in exactly the factory mounts, clips, and sheathing. Took before and after photos to get everything routed and anchored correctly.
Nothing I have done so far has fixed that short to ground on fuse 19.
Why did it start on first try, run two miles, and then blow a fuse in my garage on the 3rd or fourth restart?
Anybody had something similar happen- Ideas to try?
Jeff
2007 RTL
152,000 mi
I just finished a head- off valve job and took my 2007 RTL around a two mile “victory lap” during which It ran beautifully. I pulled the RL into the garage to clear any codes and check for leaks. I plugged in a Bluetooth donagle and it wouldn’t synch to my iPhone app. After trying my phone and my wife’s phone, I pulled out the module from the diagnostic port. The truck would crank but not start! I found the #19 fuse in the driver’s footwell fuse panel was blown. According to my book, that fuse is for: Immobilizer Control Unit Receiver, IMOES Unit, Powertrain Control Module (PCM), PGM-FI Main relay #2 Fuel Pump, PGM-FI Main Relay #2. I replaced the fuse only to have it immediately blow again as soon as I turned the ignition on. I probed the fuse panel and the output side of that fuse is a direct short to ground ( key off)
So far I have :
1. Disconnected the plug in backseat to fuel pump/ gauge, visually checked the wire bundles going to backseat. All wires still wrapped in flex conduit, no signs of wear or trauma. Fuse blew again with plug disconnected.
2. Disconnected the Throttle body
3. Dropped down the OBD (Data Link) and checked the wiring for freys or crispy spots. Even eventually got my Diagnostics module firmware (code reader) up-dated and synched with my phone- works well and showed no codes.
4. Pulled out the PGM-FI relays R-3 and R-5 checked for crispies and solonoid clicks and proper operation.
5. Searched the engine bay for loose, wires, plugs, grounds, pinched wires, etc.
6. Looked around both exhausts for wires that may have strayed too close.
During the valve job, I did a very tidy job, re-routing the wires in exactly the factory mounts, clips, and sheathing. Took before and after photos to get everything routed and anchored correctly.
Nothing I have done so far has fixed that short to ground on fuse 19.
Why did it start on first try, run two miles, and then blow a fuse in my garage on the 3rd or fourth restart?
Anybody had something similar happen- Ideas to try?
Jeff
2007 RTL
152,000 mi
